Something I have been wanting to do for some time!

I have been wanting to make my own custom fiberglass saddlebags for quite sometime. The ones I find I like are so expensive it's ridiculous. The ones I can afford are just plain boring or ugly. Well in my web travels this week I found a very informative tutorial. This gentleman did exactly what I have been wanting to do for a long time. Not only did he do it, he documented the entire process, and man oh man they look sweet!!! They look so good I though I would share his tutorial with anyone, if there is anyone at all, who reads this blog.

Step by Step for making your own fiberglass Saddlebags.

I used the foam board method. Purchase several sheets of 1" foam board.

Next create your shape using a piece of cardboard to create a profile of your bags.

Cut the sheets to a rough shape of what your looking for leaving 1 to 2 inches of extra. ( the inner sheets should have the centers cut out to make for easier removal )

Glue the sheets together using foam glue. Align the sheets and press together using something heavy to hold them together.
(example I used 9 layers for mine)



Wait a days for this to dry.

Now you have to shape it. (hot knife hand saw sanding) I cut two pieces of wood exactly the same and put them together on either side of my bag and then used a sawzall with a long blade, making sure to not cut into the wood.



Once you have finalized your shape and have to of them the same it's time to tape.(masking tape)




Tape each one with two or three layers of overlapping tape.

If you do this the final layer may be not to smooth. If you want to make it smooth so the painter doesn't have to work to hard to smooth it out after you've taped it use a body filler over the tape (all over) and sand smooth.

Plan a opening or door of some kind.

A door will be done in the same fashion just later same for a lid.

Now it's time to start glassing. Read the waring labels and use in a well ventilated area. I used 32oz mat and lots of resin.

You will do one side at a time. Mix up some resin and lay it down on one side using a brush (that won't melt NO SPONGES) Get lots of brushes you can't clean them and it's not worth it. Also mix your resin in a plastic bucket when it dries you can crack it out and use the bucket again.

Layer each side all sides with resin allowing time to harden on each side. (smooth any rough spots with a power sander as resin is hard to sand)

Now cut your glass to fit with interlocking over lays on the edges this will make it easier to strengthen the corners. If you overlap try not to do so on the next layer in the same way as to keep the surface smooth. (smooth out any rough areas or fibers that didn't lay down)

With time to dry on each side and layer do two layers and then the final layer is resin only. Be generous as to create a smooth surface.

Once your done. Resin, glass/resin, glass/resin, resin. Time to do the same steps for a lid or door. The trick here is to (masking) tape off the area of overlap where the door or lid over laps what you have done.





When the lid is done pry it off and take it easy but it will come off.

Now dig out the foam there is no easy way to do this. Try a screw driver to break it up into pieces or a dremel.



The tape will want to stick and the foam is tough but try to not pry against your new fiberglass.

The pics I've provided are of my old and new bags note the design change I also layered in some expanded aluminum for extra strength.



Then go have someone paint them









I don't take any credit for this work. I certainly hope my next winter project turns out half as good as these did!!!! Hope you all enjoy!

Learn The Chopper Basics Before You Build One

            Chopper Basics: A Simple Look At How Choppers Work...
           
             If you want to learn how to build a chopper from start to finish and
            study all the fine detials involved in every step of the process,
            this article is not for you. It's simply too large a subject to
            discuss in one simple article. But if you want to learn the basics
            of how a chopper is built, and how each of the parts work, you may
            find this article extremely informative. This article is probably
            best for the novice chopper enthusiast who wants to take the fist
            step in learning how to build a chopper.
            If you want to ad in any additional information, please contact us
            and we may include it in this article. We would love to expand on
            this and make an advanced presnentation. And with your help on how
            to build a chopper we can accomplish this together.
            Also, if after you have read this article you want more detailed
            information I recommend this video (DVD) series.
            Following is the brief description about the parts used in chopper
            motorcycles and a basic guide to what's needed in the process of
            learning how to build a chopper...


            Chopper Basics: The FRAME

            The most important step in learning how to build a chopper is
            understanding the frame. The frame is one of the most important
            components on a motorcycle, especially on a large motorcycle. The
            frame must be designed strong enough and built rigid enough to:

              Manage the power and torque created by your power train and
              maintain its alignment during the full range of
              acceleration/deceleration.

              Maintain wheel alignment during extreme braking and hard
              cornering, as well as while riding over rough surfaces.

              Provide a solid mounting surface and pivot points for the front
              and rear suspension.

              Effectively support the weight of the motorcycle itself as well as
              the rider, a passenger, and travel gear.

            Frame Construction

            The frame is made from high-strength seamless steel tubing and
            utilizes a high tensile strength welding process to extremely tight
            tolerances.
            Chopper Basics: Types of Frames:
            1) Hidden Shock Frame
             A) Steering Head
             B) Frame
             C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
             D) Shock Absorbers

            2) Rubber Mount Frame
             A) Steering Head
             B) Frame
             C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
             D) Shock Absorbers

            3) Rigid Frame
             A) Steering Head
             B) Frame
           
            SYSTEMChopper Basics: The SUSPENSION  (Front & Rear)

            In learning how to build a chopper beyond frame design, the
            suspension system is the chief ingredient in determining the
            handling capability of a motorcycle. The suspension system is
            responsible for keeping the wheels on the ground and absorbing the
            shock as the motorcycle passes over uneven surfaces in the road.
            Both the front suspension (telescoping front forks) and the rear
            suspension (rear swing arm and shock absorbers) operate by
            compressing and extending as the motorcycle passes over a bump,
            absorbing the shock of the bump to keep the motorcycle stable. The
            front and rear suspension utilize springs for the up and down
            compression and extension, and suspension dampers to stabilize the
            up and down movement. Without the suspension dampers, the springs in
            the suspension system would continue to bounce up and down after
            each bump creating a “rocking horse” effect.

            FRONT SUSPENSION

            Motorcycles use two types of telescopic front fork assemblies:
            conventional and inverted. Each assembly consists of two fork tubes
            which contain springs, spring dampers and oil. The fork legs slide
            on the fork tubes. The tube or leg extends and compresses within
            itself as a shock absorber. The two types differ in these ways. On
            the conventional type, the fork tubes are captured by the triple
            clamp positioning the fork leg at the bottom of the assembly. The
            inverted type was developed on racing motorcycles to place the
            heaviest and strongest part, the fork leg itself, in the triple
            clamp - thus inverting the assembly. This design gives more rigidity
            to the fork, reducing fork tube flex and lessens the unsprung
            weight, improving suspension response. The triple clamps (trees) and
            fork stem hold the front fork tubes to the frame and keep the tubes
            aligned. The fork stem is an integral part of the triple tree and
            fits through the steering head allowing the forks to be turned to
            the right and left.
                                                                       
            Inverted Fork Suspension                                     
            Conventional Fork Suspension
            A) Triple Clamps and Fork Stem
            B) Fork Legs                                                                                                              
            C) Fork Tubes

            REAR SUSPENSION 

            There are two types of rear suspension exposed shock absorbers and
            hidden shock absorbers. The rear fork is attached to the frame with
            the pivot shaft. The arms of the rear fork (often called the swing
            arm) hold the rear wheel and keep it aligned. The rear shock
            absorbers mount to the rear forks and the back struts of the
            motorcycle. The ability of motorcycle to handle effectively while
            cornering, breaking, etc. depends in part on the suspension system
            having the right amount of “controlled flexibility.” Over time or
            under certain conditions if your suspension seems too rigid or too
            spongy, it may need servicing or adjustment.

            Chopper Basics: The POWERTRAIN
            The power train is composed of:
            A. V-Twin, 107 cubic-inch, or any four stroke engine
            B. Chain driven primary drive except in metric applications
            C. 5-Speed transmission or 6-Speed transmission
            D. Belt driven final drive down Chain works just as well

            Chopper Basics: How the Engine Works

            In learning how to build a chopper, you have to have a thorough
            understanding of the engine. A four-stroke engine means that each
            piston moves four times (strokes) for the engine to complete one
            full cycle.
           
            Four Strokes of engine are: Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow!!!

            (Suck)Intake Stroke -The piston moves down while the intake valve is open,
            pulling the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder.
            (Squeeze)Compression Stroke - The piston moves upward pressurizing the
            air/fuel mixture.
            (Bang)Power Stroke - As the spark plug ignites the compressed air/fuel
            mixture, the combustion pushes the piston back down.
            (Blow)Exhaust Stroke - With the exhaust valve open the piston moves upward
            again, pushing the burned gases out of the cylinder.

            The valves opening & closing, the pistons cycling at 3,000 to 5,000
            revolutions per minute (at normal operating speeds), the spark plugs
            firing all occurring in the proper timing is what it takes to keep
            your motorcycle down the road.

            PRIMARY DRIVE:

            The purpose of the primary drive is to deliver power from the engine
            to the gear box. The primary, or initial drive, on your motorcycle
            is composed of a primary drive chain which runs from the crankshaft
            in the engine to the clutch in the gear box. The power from the
            engine to the gear box is engaged and disengaged by the clutch.
           
            TRANSMISSION (GEAR BOX):

            The transmission or gear box connects the primary drive to the final
            drive with a set of shafts and different size gears. Engaging the
            different size gears in the gear box allows for a wide variety of
            rear wheel speeds, while allowing the engine to operate
            "comfortably" within its range of normal operating speeds. Smaller
            gears provide more torque while larger gears provide more speed.
            This pairing of different size gears is called “gear ratio” or “gear
            reduction”. The gear ratio or reduction in your Big Dog power train
            begins with the primary drive, increases in the gear box and
            culminates with the final drive.

            FINAL DRIVE:

            The final drive, is the last link in the power train and connects
            the gear box to the rear wheel.

            Chopper Basics: The BRAKING SYSTEM

            The front brake is a hydraulic disc type, which is operated by the
            hand lever on the right handle bar. It is composed of:
            A. Front disc rotor
            B. 4-piston caliper
            C. Braided stainless steel lines
            D. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir
            The rear brake is a hydraulic disc type which is operated by the
            pedal on the right foot rest. It is composed of:
            E. Rear disc rotor
            F. 4 piston caliper
            G. Braided stainless steel lines
            H. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir
            How the Braking System Works
            The braking system is designed so that the front brake should supply
            75% of the braking power or your motorcycle. It should be used as
            the primary brake while using the rear brake as secondary.
            FOR NORMAL BRAKING: Apply both the rear and front brakes while down
            shifting to match your road speed.
            FOR MAXIMUM BRAKING: Close the throttle and firmly apply both rear
            and front brakes; then pull in the clutch lever before coming to a
            complete stop to prevent the engine from stalling.

            Chopper Basics: The CLUTCH SYSTEM

            A. Clutch hand lever
            B. Clutch cable
            C. Clutch assembly
            The clutch assembly is positioned between the primary drive chain
            and the gearbox, and provides a way to connect and disconnect the
            primary drive (power transmitted from the engine) and the gearbox.
            The clutch assembly is disengaged by pulling the clutch hand lever
            in against the handlebar grip; it is engaged by releasing the lever.
            When the engine is running, the primary drive is spinning. As the
            clutch is engaged (the hand lever released) the power from the
            engine is transferred to the gearbox and the rear wheel. When the
            clutch is disengaged (the hand lever pulled closed) the gearbox does
            not receive power from the engine.

            THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY:

            Simply put, the clutch assembly is composed of round discs called
            “clutch plates” which are contained inside a clutch housing (often
            called the clutch basket). These plates are pushed together by
            spring tension. When pushed together, friction between the plates
            causes them to bind or couple together which provides the link to
            transfer power from the engine, through the clutch, to the gearbox.
            CLUTCH HAND LEVER & CABLE:

            When the clutch hand lever is pulled, the clutch cable acts against
            (or relieves) the spring tension within the clutch assembly to
            release the friction grip inside the clutch. As the clutch plates
            separate from each other and slip, this de-couples the gearbox from
            the engine. The clutch assembly is a mechanical wet clutch.
            Mechanical means that it does not operate by hydraulic pressure. A
            wet clutch means that the clutch assembly operates immersed in an
            oil bath. This not only helps to keep the clutch assembly cool, but
            also washes away loosened friction material from the clutch plates,
            keeping the surfaces clean and free of debris.

            Chopper Basics: The ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

            The electrical system provides power for your motorcycle. It is
            powered by a high cranking, long -life, 12-volt battery. The
            electrical system can be divided into five sub systems:
            1. STARTING SYSTEM
            A. Battery
            B. Start switch - Not Shown
            C. Solenoid (Relay)
            D. Starting motor (Starter)
            2. CHARGING SYSTEM
            E. Alternator
            F. Voltage regulator
            A. Battery
            3. IGNITION SYSTEM
            G. Ignition switch and ignition coil
            H. Kill switch - Not Shown
            I. Electronic Control Unit
            J. Spark plugs - Not Shown
            4. ACCESSORY SYSTEM
            * Lights
            * Horn
            * Turn Signals
            * Warning Lights
            * Other Accessories
            5. CIRCUIT BREAKER

            Chopper Basics: The FUEL SYSTEM
            A. Fuel tank
            B. Fuel supply valve
            C. Carburetor and air filter
            D. Throttle grip & cable
            E. Fuel lines
            The fuel system on your motorcycle is a gravity flow system, so no
            fuel pump is required. Although it is a simple system, it must
            perform the complicated task of blending (or mixing) the fuel and
            air together in the right proportions and supply this mixture to the
            engine.
            FUEL SUPPLY VALVE:
            The fuel supply valve (petcock) is a manually operated on/off valve
            designed to control the fuel flow from the gas tank to the
            carburetor.
            CARBURETOR:
            The carburetor is the central part as well as the most complex part
            of the fuel system. Its primary job is it to atomize (break up) the
            fuel into small droplets, and mix the atomized fuel with the right
            amount of air. This mixing (or metering) of fuel and air is called
            the air/fuel ratio. It is precisely here (the carburetor’s ability to
            atomize and properly meter the air-fuel ratio) that performance, as
            well as fuel efficiency, is won or lost.
            CARBURETOR OPERATION:
            In basic terms (see illustration) as air enters the carburetor, its
            speed increases passing through the bottleneck in the throat of the
            carburetor. This increase in air speed creates a vacuum within the
            carburetor which pulls fuel from the fuel reservoir into the air
            stream. The fuel is atomized and mixed as it enters the air stream
            and is then provided to the engine.
            THROTTLE GRIP AND CABLE:
            The throttle grip and cable are connected to the throttle plate or
            throttle slide inside the carburetor (see illustration). The
            throttle plate and/or throttle slide controls the flow of air
            through the carburetor. Opening the throttle allows more air to pass
            through the carburetor which draws more fuel into the air stream.
            This results in increased power from the engine.
            AIR FILTER:
            The air filter keeps airborne dirt and debris from entering the
            throat of the carburetor and passing into the engine.

            Chopper Basics: CONTROLS AND DISPLAYS

            TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES:
            Located at the base of each handlebar control group. The right
            handlebar turn signal switch operates the right front and right rear
            flashing lamps, and the left handlebar turn signal switch operates
            the left. To operate the turn signal you must depress and release
            the turn switch.

            Chopper Basics: MIRRORS AKA Pig Spotters!

            Generally your Motorcycle is equipped with two mirrors. Adjust the
            mirrors to clearly reflect the area behind the motorcycle.
            A. SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER:
            The speedometer registers miles per hour of forward speed. The
            odometer registers the number of miles the vehicle has traveled.
            B. TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS:
            The green TURN indicators will flash when turn signals are
            activated.
            C. HIGH BEAM LIGHT:
            The blue BEAM indicator light, when lit, signals that the headlamp
            high beam is on.
            D. TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL LIGHT:
            The green NEUTRAL light turns on to indicate when the transmission
            is in neutral.
            E. OIL INDICATOR LIGHT:
            The red OIL indicator light, when lit, signals that oil is not
            circulating through the engine. The light will come on when the
            ignition is turned on prior to starting the engine. With the engine
            running, this light should be off except possibly at low idle. If
            the oil pressure indicator light does not go off at speeds above
            idling, it is usually because of an empty oil tank or diluted oil.
            In freezing weather the oil feed may clog with ice and sludge,
            preventing oil circulation.

            GEAR SHIFTER: The gear shifter is located on the left side, and is
            operated with the toe of the left foot. There are five or six
            forward gears (depending on model) and no reverse. Pushing the lever
            all the way down (one full stroke) shifts the transmission to the
            next lower gear, while lifting the lever all the way up (one full
            stroke) shifts the transmission into the next higher gear. The
            operator must release the gear shift lever after each gear change to
            allow the lever to return to its central position before another
            gear change can be made. The neutral position is between first (low)
            and second gears. First gear is the last gear position that can be
            found by pushing the lever full strokes downward. To shift from
            first gear to neutral, lift the lever half its full stroke.
            SIDE STAND:
            The side stand is located on the left side of the motorcycle and
            swings outward to support the motorcycle for parking.
            BRAKE PEDAL:
            In this article on how to build a chopper, we are going to end it
            with the brake pedal. The Brake pedal controls the rear wheel brake
            and is located on the motorcycle's right side. It is operated by the
            right foot.
            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          

Now I know a lot of this applies to Harley Choppers, but it is all useful info to any gearhead out there. Make what works for work for you. Hope y'all enjoyed!!!

Ever thought of anodizing your own parts?

I did not write this article. The gentleman who signed it at the end did. I just wanted to share another resource I have.

Anodizing 101

Based on the number of companies selling, and people looking for, anodizing services for their gun's aluminum bodies and parts, I wanted to provide this info to the paintballing community. I first came across the process in Super Chevy magazine, in an article about anodizing your own parts and brackets, for a custom touch on your hot rod. (* Original article by Bruce Hampson.) Often anodizing is considered and/or presented as a difficult and expensive procedure. As it turns out, it really isn't that hard or that pricey.

Supplies Needed:

The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. This item is what might make this too expensive for some paintballers. I (and most other hot rodders) already have one, for my car. If you don-t, then you will need to pick one up. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. While it may seem like a lot, it does have other uses. (You could charge a battery, for example.) =) The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project.
No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces.

Safety Precautions:

There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don-t want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breath. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition near the project area.Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area.

Preparations:

One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.)
Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section.
 
A couple of notes:

I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution.

Color:

So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step.

End Notes:

It is important to realize that the process described above will yield only one color on your part. At this time, I haven't found out how to do any of the splash type of anodizing. (That's okay though, it looks really ugly anyways.) Should anyone happen to figure it out, I suggest you submit it to Warpig so they can put it up for others who like it.
Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing only works well on rock metal like bar or sheet stock, as opposed to castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. I figure this shouldn't be too big a problem with the guns, but just thought I should let you know about it.
Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts in a gun however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already.

So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your gun out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper.

And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
T. Gray Jr.

Depression and adventure...

So here I sit depressed as fuck. I have had a very large part of my life taken away from me. It all happened about 4 and half years ago. I was standing in a parking lot getting something out of my trunk when I heard someone say something to me. I still have no idea what the mother fucker said. So I turned from the trunk of my car and faced his car head on. He looked at me and said something else. Before I could get the word What out of my mouth he had his engine floored and he was headed right for me. He was rough 12 feet away when he gunned the engine. What I can see in my mind in slow motion and so vividly actually happened so quick, I don't think I could have done anything to avoid being hit by this vehicle. Well I didn't avoid the accident.

Just before the vehicle hit me, I tried to jump straight up thinking this might help me for some unknown reason. It actually did help a great deal. All because of my pathetic little white man jump I didn't get completely run over by the late 80s Cutlass Cierra. Instead my knee took an impact I will never forget against the bumper, this caused my body to flop forward and smack the hood of his car with my basically the whole upper half of my body. Well the driver never slowed down. Nope not one fucking bit!!! ***Insert nasty name calling here*** So as I smacked the hood of his piece of shit Cutlass Cierra my body continued to flip over the hood and off to the side. I landed on the ground right next to his car. Has he was speeding off I still remember the rear wheel going by my face and missing it by two inches max!!!! Anyways, how I landed on the ground is what has screwed up my life in so many ways. I landed on the back of my head. My chin hit my chest so hard it left a bruise on my chest!!! First time I have ever seen that is what the doctor said to me. I also managed to not break a single bone. The doctors told me that was the bad part. You see what  I did injure was every muscle in my upper back and neck.

These days, four and half years later, I deal with constant headaches, I can barely turn my head to the left, some days I can't hold my own head up, and the pain....well the pain never stops. I guess I shouldn't say never, but I can say it hasn't stopped yet. That is a very long time to deal with this amount of pain. It hurts me to say that I have spent many nights trying to make a decision of whether to put myself down or keep moving forward. All I have to do is see my 7 year old daughters face, and that answer becomes quite easy to me. Although, I live with this depression. Many of the things I love to do I can't/ Plain and simple, I just can't do them. Most days my hands are so numb I can't pass a bottle of ketchup without using two hands.

I am still able to ride a motorcycle though! Motorcycles are the one thing in my life that I have had serious passion for! I mean I still remember the first bike I ever saw up close. It was an old trials bike bye bultaco. I knew I wanted to ride any and every kind of motorcycle I could throw my leg over! And to this day there are a few bikes out there that still elude me, but I have ridden so very many.

My doctor tells me if I don't see a psychologist soon that I my problems and my depression are only going to get worse. So I am thinking what I need is a short one man retreat. Me, my motorcycle, my journal, some music, and I would like to find a way to carry a guitar with me as well. Oh, and I need a decent digital camera as well. One week....seven days....168 hours....10080 minutes....604800 seconds....a lifetime of healing on my mind and soul.

So what is preventing me from doing this? My family? No I can't blame them....Money? Well, yeah maybe a little bit. My fear? Very much so. What if I find that I can't return to the ones I love because I don't want to be a burden on anyone. Would they miss me? Yes of course they would. But my wife tells me all the time how much she misses the old me.

So where does this leave me..................................................................................

The shop is so fucking cold!

Well I have a ton of motorcycle stuff to read or freeze my ass off and wrench or??? What I have been up to is building electronic gadgets. Something I love to do almost as much as building engines. Just got a pile of parts in to build a couple of orders for personal vaporizers.

Needless to say I have some very precise soldering to do, and some fun projects to make a little extra money. Plus I am helping people quit smoking which is always a plus!!!

Hopefully post some more motorcycle shit here soon!!!

A little more about vaping...

Yeah I know it looks simple, but it really can help you stop killing yourself with smoke!!! I just finished this one up yesterday, and thought I would put a pic up. This is one of the 3.7 volt box mods. These can also be made in other colors if you like. I personally have a translucent box with a green led so the whole box glows in the works right now. This will be a 5 volt mod. I can't wait to see how it turns out. It is supposed to be mine, but I know how this shit works!! I don't ever get to keep any of my cool stuff! Man I need some heat in my workshop right now, so I can throw some wrenches on my bike.

I am also thinking about taking a road trip and going to meet Hugh personally. I would love to hang around his shop for a day or two see and see how he does things. I have already learned so much from him just from reading his posts on forums and shit. If you don't know who I am talking about check him out here at http://hughshandbuilt.blogspot.com/ Check out the genius that is Hugh. He is a whiz with Yamaha XS650 motorcycles. Hey that just happens to be one of the projects in my shop right now!!!! Coincidence? I think not!!!

I want to help bikers get healthier here...

A lot of bikers I know smoke cigarettes. I used to be one of those people until a little over 7 months ago. I started using a personal vaporizer or an electronic cigarette. Doesn't matter to me what you would like to call it. It can help you quit inhaling all those chemicals from an analog cigarette. I still use nicotine which has been proven to be no more harmful than caffiene.

I make small box mods in 3.7 volts, 5 volts, and the almighty variable voltage. I can point you in the direction of getting good tasting nicotine juice in just about any flavor you can imagine. If you are interested in more information about this, would like to order one of my simple box mods, or whatever please feel free to e-mail me at mikzoc@gmail.com.

Let's be smoke free the easy way!!!! It's a lot easier than you think. I did it without killing anyone, so that has to say something!!! And don't let anyone tell you that they don't give big hits! It's a damn lie!!!



This winter really hasn't been that bad at all.

I thought I would like to just put this thought out there for people who are getting ready to pull their trusty steeds out of storage a little early(like me!!!).

 How to put your bike back into service after extended storage         

      To put your bike back into service after extended storage:
      *Clean fuel system (tank, lines, all filter screens, taps and carb
        banjos).
      *Clean points and plugs with contact cleaner.
      *Lube all grease fittings, advance unit, and chain, and cables.
      *Change oil in engine, oiltank, forks, gearbox, primary chaincase. It is a
        good idea to unscrew and clean the sump filter and the oiltank filters,
        and then pour a half cup of engine oil in the rocker caps to drip down and
        lube tappets, cams and prime oilpump.
      *Unscrew oil pressure light switch fitting, and force oil under pressure
        into the hole to prime crankshaft shell bearings.
      *Kick over with plugs out until oil begins circulating.
      *Check and adjust primary and rear chain tension, valve clearance, points
        gap and timing. It is not a bad idea to retorque head and cylinder first.
      *Check tyre pressure.
      *Replace battery, and fully bench charge new one before use.
      *Strobe check timing, adjust carbs and cables, and test run during
        daylight hours, then check over for loose hardware.
      

This is my short must do list. There are so many more things you can and should do. Me personally I give my bike a full service every spring. I treat the swingarm pivot to some new grease. I also regrease and check the steering head. I mean why not? This bike of mine has to be safe, and I really like the feeling of how it rides when I keep up on all of this stuff. Is it work that just anyone can do? Probably not. Sorry, but it is the truth. If you want to learn more of this stuff start hanging out with different bikers who do their own work correctly. Buy yourself a bible, otherwise known as a service manual, for your exact bike. It must be for your bike. You will be surprised how much of the stuff you will be completely capable of doing.

Well as we start heading towards spring here I have already started getting my daily rider ready! I have a dream! Can't wait to ride again!!!!

Keep the rubber down, ride it like you stole it, and any other cliche you can think of!!!!
      
       
           

Some engine and frame number info for old British Iron!

Technical Info. > Engine & Frame Numbers > Norton : Triumph : BSA

Norton Year Codes	Code	Year	Code	Year	Code	Year
Year codes were used for all models between 1946 & 1960.	A	1946	F	1951	L	1956
	B	1947	G	1952	M	1957
	C	1948	H	1953	N	1958
	D	1949	J	1954	P	1959
	E	1950	K	1955	R	1960

Norton Model Codes	Code	Model	Code	Model
In addition; suffix D indicates de-luxe twin, suffix SS indicates Sports Special twin, suffix Q indicates quietening ramp cams (some 1947 singles)	2	16H	122	88
	3	18	13	50
	3T	500T	14	99
	4	ES2	15	77 & Nomad
	6	19R	16	Nomad
	7	Big 4	17	Jubilee
	8	16H or Big Four plunger	18	All 650 twins
	9	19S	19	Navigator
	10	International 40	20	Atlas
	10M	Manx 40	20M3	Commando (distributor)
	10M2	Manx 40 Featherbed	20M3S	Commando (camshaft points)
	11	International 30	50	AMC 50
	11M	Manx 30	ES	Electra
	11M2	Manx 30 Featherbed	ES2	AMC ES2
	12	Model 7

Norton Serial Numbers	Year	No.	Year	No.	Year	No.
Some overlap of numbers occurred from one model year, or calendar year, to the next, some these numbers are approximate only & relate to the year's end.   Also, Electra: July 1963 - 650 Sept. 1964 - 6201 Aug 1965 - 7961	1945	1001	1956	66600	1967	119760
	1946	2131	1957	71360	1968	124300
	1947	7756	1958	77400	1969	130000
	1948	13792	1959	80488	1970	134700
	1949	20701	1960	87038	1971	141700
	1950	27100	1961	94500	1972	200001
	1951	35560	1962	101060	1973	212278
	1952	42700	1963	105000	1973	300000 (850)
	1953	48900	1964	108000	1974	307311
	1954	55350	1965	111650	1975	325000 (MkIII)
	1955	60700	1966	115870		125001 (frame)

Technical Info. > Engine & Frame Numbers > Norton : Triumph : BSA

I dont request much from people...

I rarely ask anyone to do anything for me. This I am asking to do for yourself!!! Sign this and send it to your Congressman!!! http://fightforthefuture.org/pipa I can't explain how important this is! I can't demand you to do this although I want too! Please is all I can say. Please think of all that it will ruin. Thank you.

SOPA! Strike mofos!!!!

http://sopastrike.com/

This is a serious deal everyone!!!! We must not let this happen either! Stand tall and proud Americans!!!

How do y'all want it???

I am getting ready to post quite a bit of information concerning Yamaha XS650 Carbs. It is a lot of information, so I have a question for you guys out there reading this!

Do you want the info in sections or one large, very long post???

Give me some feedback, so I can make this your blog to read!

Thanks,

Mike

Simple definition

Okay, so I received an e-mail from a newbie who asked why I named the article Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. This is how I learned the 4 cycles of engines. Suck = Intake, Squeeze = Compression , Bang = Power, Blow = Exhausts.

I hope that clears that up ;)

Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Part 3!!!!

Ok last segment of this article. I posted this in three segments, so people would have the time to wrap their heads around each part.

Secret #3: Cylinder Head Basics
So we see that high rpm not only isn't always the route to added performance, but when it is the indicated path, it has its hurdles that must be dealt with. Being familiar with these issues is important. Finally, we come to high performance engine "secret" number 3 -- the four-stroke cylinder head. There is a lot of mystique surrounding the high performance four-stroke head. At the races, when a competitor is tearing down his engine, he will often wrap his cylinder head in a towel, away from prying eyes. Many have said that the four-stroke engine's camshaft is the heart of the engine. However that really isn't so. The camshaft is merely the "equal sign," the part that brings all the rest of the engine together. The real heart of the engine is the combustion chamber. Engine performance truly begins there.

Combustion Chamber Shape
The shape of the combustion chamber is more important than many realize. It is far more important than what is done to the ports, or how big your carburetors are. Current combustion chamber technology has resulted in very flat combustion chambers. The reduced volume of this shape results in a shorter flame period, which means ignition timing doesn't have to be advanced as far. (The ignition advance required to get maximum power is in fact an indicator of how well the combustion chamber does its job.) In fact, modern engines run much less ignition timing than older ones do. The result is free power because for whatever number of crankshaft degrees that are saved, the engine is no longer fighting itself, with the piston compressing an already-burning mixture. Remember also that the piston is part of the combustion chamber. With their flat-topped pistons, high compression is possible in modern combustion chambers without detonation. There are no nooks and crannies in which harmful, detonation-producing end-gases can hide, enabling sport bike manufacturers to give these 86-octane-fed engines amazing 12:1 compression ratios. This new age engine's flatter pistons also present to its chambers less surface area and therefore they absorb less of combustion's heat. One of the advantages of the many multi-valve chambers we have today is that with so many valves in the chamber, these valves are more vertical, further allowing very efficient, shallow combustion chamber shapes. Older engine designs with more horizontal valves and necessarily deeper chambers are at a serious handicap, comparatively, and typically cannot run as high a compression and need considerably more ignition advance. One of the best aftermarket cylinder heads for the Harley Evo engine has the valve stems pulled toward each other, relative to stock, for more vertical valves and a shallower, better burning chamber. (Actually, the valve heads are moved apart, not the stems together. Consequently, this head works only on a very large big-bore cylinder.) Aftermarket heads like this one are the most effective items in the Harley performance market. Naturally, stock cylinder heads can't be improved by moving their valves around, but they can be reshaped to give at least some of the same benefit. Then there's squish. Squish, that area of the combustion chamber that serves to push end-gases toward the spark plug, to both eliminate end-gases and generate healthy charge agitation just before the spark, is a very important part of the high performance combustion chamber. So effective is every aspect of squish -- from its total surface area to its angle to its relation to the piston crown -- that racing teams usually guard each season's combustion chamber specs very carefully. Though the combustion chamber is often ignored by many engine builders, the professional has long known its the secret of its power potential.

Camshaft Technology
No part of the four-stroke high performance engine embodies more mystery to the average enthusiast than the camshaft. There is a lot that is taken for granted about this usually very hyped-up component, but it is an interesting and quite simple fact that, just as the engine wants either MEP or rpm to make more power, likewise its valves want to be opened either farther or for a longer period to increase power. However, unlike MEP vs. rpm, both of which make more power, the power resulting from holding the valve open longer or opening it farther is very different in each case. Let's examine this. The idea of fooling with valve timing remember is increased volumetric efficiency. One of the ways the camshaft can contribute to this is by holding the engine's valve open longer. That is, by increasing the valve's open duration. This will potentially give more opportunity to the engine for cylinder filling. But there is a drawback. Exposing the cylinder to the outside for longer periods affects the intake and exhaust tracts by slowing the movement of their contents. The result is less optimum mixture distribution at lower engine speeds, because the fuel separates from the airstream when it is moving too slowly. In addition, extended valve duration cuts into the time the cylinder has to compress its mixture -- the engine has less compression. So while added valve duration usually offers a high rpm power increase, a side-effect is a loss of low rpm power. Another potential benefit of extended valve duration is that it usually increases valve overlap, that period during which both valves are open. As the valve overlap increases, the aforementioned pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust systems become dramatically more effective. However, again there is a drawback, and that is that the extended valve duration engine depends more heavily on pulse and inertia tuning to run well at all. Though powerful, pulse and inertia tuning is effective for only a very narrow rpm range. An engine cammed this way therefore runs better than stock, but only above s certain rpm, below which it runs much worse. The other way the camshaft can be used to increase cylinder filling, by opening the valve farther instead of holding it open longer, brings a very different effect. Like the valve that is held open longer, the valve that is opened farther allows more air into the cylinder, increasing power. However, since the time that the cylinder is exposed to the outside is not increased, the gases moving in the tract are not slowed, and the charge enters the cylinder still well mixed and combusts nicely. The result is no loss of low rpm power. Furthermore, since valve timing isn't changed, there is no loss of cylinder compression, and the engine isn't made more dependent on pulse and inertia tuning. Why then aren't all camshafts made this way, with an emphasis on lift instead of on duration, especially performance cams? There are three reasons. First, there is valve acceleration. The valve that is opened farther yet taking no more time to do so is one that is opened more quickly, i.e. accelerated harder. Remember that as the valve is accelerated, it tends to "float," and that float is the greatest danger in engines having old-fashioned spindly and flexible valve trains, which until a few years ago meant most of them. Second, because of the engineering world's historic fixation on valve duration, a certain politic of camshaft design has prevailed. It is still a cherished belief in many engineering circles that a valve never needs to be opened farther than 25 percent of its diameter. (Until the late 1980s, few if any production motorcycles deviated from this principle.) This 25 percent figure comes from an interesting geometrical fact. It happens that when the valve is open to a distance equal to 0.25 its diameter, the flow curtain around the valve's periphery is maximized. That is, it's a big as it is ever going to get. This is true as far as it goes, but like the old saying, it doesn't go far enough. There is more to this issue than flow curtain. The interesting thing is, opening a valve to 0.30d and more (racing engines open them to almost 0.50d) results in an interesting bit of trickery as far as time is concerned. For, larger openings actually extend the amount of time the valve is opened, without actually increasing valve open duration and thus adversely affecting tract speed and ultimately combustion. No, that is not a typo. More open time without more duration. Here's how it works. A valve that is open to 0.25d is at that magical full flow point only an infinitesimal period at operating speed. Almost negligibly, really. So the 0.25d flow curtain benefit is largely theoretical. However, when the valve is opened to say 0.35d (as most production sportbikes' valves are today), the valve then, by virtue of being opened past the 0.25d point, has some time to dwell at 0.25d, even though the total open duration is unchanged. Neat, huh? Finally, the third reason not many aftermarket camshafts are designed with lift in mind instead of duration is that such cams are very difficult to market. Its numbers aren't as impressive, for one thing. Plus, this kind of cam takes a lot more care to install properly, care that most engine builders unfortunately just aren't going to take. In fact, this is our next topic of discussion.

Cylinder Head Set-Up
One of the most "secret" of all engine building techniques is proper cylinder head set-up. Many people assume that an aftermarket cam can be purchased from a catalog and put in the engine and away you go. Not so. But this is the perception, and this is why camshaft manufacturers can't sell really well-designed camshafts, but instead offer ones heavy in duration that any fool can install without trouble and get at least dubious results from. Most serious engine builders design their own cams. Check around and you will find that this is so. However, whether the camshaft you use is a custom or one off the shelf, it absolutely must be installed correctly. At the very least, that camshaft must be degreed, but that's another discussion altogether. There are an even dozen valve-related checks that must be made on the engine when installing the aftermarket cam. Following is an outline of those checks. Let's begin by defining some terms that may not be familiar to everyone, but all of which refer to the valve spring.

1. Spring Free-Length:
   Spring free-length means the length of the valve spring un-installed. This is usually the only specification given by the service manual. Its purpose in the stock engine is merely to identify the correct spring, and more importantly, to enable you to easily spot fatigued springs. However, high performance engine builders use spring free-length to calculate other important spring specifications. So we must start here.
   
   
2. Spring Installed Height:
   Installed height means the height of the valve spring once it is installed. In other words, the spring is already partly compressed even before the valve has moved. The purpose of installed height is simply to gauge valve seat pressure. Valve seat pressure is important in any engine, stock or modified.
   
   
3. Spring Full-Open Length:
   A spring's full open length is its length when the valve is fully open. This is the spring's shortest working length, and therefore it reflects the hardest that the spring will work. The primary purpose of spring full open length is to help the engine builder determine if there is sufficient spring pressure to control valve float, about which more will be said later.
   
   
4. Spring Coilbind:
   When a valve spring is coilbound, it is completely compressed, its coils touching one another -- metal to metal. This should never occur in operation, but we need to know when it could theoretically occur, so as to know how much room we have to stay away from it.

Now let's look at setting up an engine's valves and valve springs for performance cams and pistons. The following twelve valve related checks are performed on most four-stroke engines, though as noted, a few are specific to rocker arm engines, and a few to shim and bucket engines.

1. Installed Height:
   As mentioned earlier, the spring's installed height is the spring manufacturer's way of ensuring that you get the correct valve seat pressure. The modified engine's increased cylinder pressure requires better sealing. Also, at high rpm there is less time for valve cooling, making good seating even more crucial. Some spring manufacturers use installed height in place of full-open pressure (our next step) to identify their springs and match them to the camshaft, though that is not the correct way. Checking installed height is easy. When the manufacturer's spec is available, simply assemble the valve components without the spring and measure how much room there is for the spring. In most cases, you will have to adjust the components to get the recommended installed height. If there is not enough room for the spring, this may mean sinking the valve deeper into the combustion chamber (the least desirable solution, as it will affect combustion), or machining the cylinder head spring seat area. If there is more than enough room, the spring can simply be shimmed to the correct installed height. If the spring manufacturer's spec is not available, as happens often with high performance parts for Asian engines, the process is a little more complicated. You must add together the spring's coilbind length, the maximum valve lift, and a 0.060" safety margin. The result will be an installed height that assumes you want the maximum seat pressure possible given the cam and springs you have.
   
   
2. Full-Open Pressure:
   All performance camshafts, whether duration or lift emphasizing, increase how quickly the valve opens, adding to valve acceleration and making controlling valve float a real problem. Increases in engine rpm that often accompany performance modifications further add to the issue. The spring's full-open pressure is your first line of defense against valve float, and it will often need to be considerably more than stock. There are two ways to determine full-open pressure, and both require a spring tester. You don't really need one of those $1000 units. There are several makes of small hydraulically-operated spring testers available that you can use in a bench vise. In method A, the length method, you must know the spring's installed height. Simply subtract from this the maximum valve lift, and compress the spring(s) in the spring tester to this length. If using method B, the pressure method, simply compress the spring(s) the amount of the maximum valve lift and note the pressure. Then mathematically add the known seat pressure.
   
   
3. Valve Free Travel:
   The valve's free travel, the amount that the valve can travel from closed to when there is guide interference, is very important. It determines retainer-to-guide clearance. Assemble the components without the springs, and measure from the bottom of the retainer to the valve guide seal. For safety, the amount must be 0.060" more than the maximum valve lift.
   
   
4. Coilbind Clearance:
   The purpose of checking for coilbind clearance, how close to coilbind the spring comes when operated, is to validate your spring choice. That is, it will reveal either over-shimmed or incorrect rate valve springs. Just repeat the full open test (length method) and then see if you can compress the spring 0.060" more without it coilbinding. If not, it's the wrong spring.
   
   
5. Valve-to-Piston Clearance:
   The relationship between the valve and the piston necessarily changes in an engine modified with a different piston or camshaft, or when the cylinder deck clearance or cylinder head surface are modified. In most cases, this relationship must change for maximum performance. That is, to make full use of an engine design, the valve must usually be brought much closer to the piston. This is by the way why so many Asian cars tangle their valves when their cam belt breaks, whereas American cars with similar designs do not. The Asian cars (and virtually all motorcycles) are built with much closer valve-to-piston tolerances, because maximum performance design usually makes better use of this clearance, resulting in less of it remaining. The two traditional methods for checking valve-to-piston clearance are the clay method and the indicator method. Method A (clay) -- If a hydraulic lifter engine, temporarily substitute solid lifters. Then lightly oil the combustion chamber and piston, cover the entire piston crown with a thick layer of clay, and reassemble the engine. Turn the crankshaft through at least two revolutions, and remove the cylinder head. After carefully removing the clay, bisect it and measure the valve-to-piston clearance with a caliper. Method B (indicator) -- Install soft (dirt bike carburetor) springs in place of the valve springs. If a hydraulic lifter engine, temporarily substitute solid lifters. Put a degree wheel on the crankshaft and find true TDC. After rotating the crankshaft to TDC overlap, place a dial indicator on the valve retainer and "zero" the dial. Then push down on the valve and note on the indicator how much the valve moves. Repeat with the crankshaft at 30^o either side of TDC, in 10^o steps. The valve needs to move at least 0.060".
   
   
6. Valve-to-Valve Clearance:
   Another potential problem area is valve-to-valve interference. This normally happens only when the camshaft is changed or larger valves are fitted. Two methods again. Method A is similar to Method B above for the valve-to-piston check, except insert a 0.060" piece of solder through the spark plug hole and determine whether the solder can pass between the valves. Method B is a Harley-only method, and requires that the manufacturer supply you with the "TDC lift spec," which is simply the amount the valves are open at TDC overlap. You simply put the valves in the head without springs or other parts, on the bench. Stop collar (using drill stops) the valves to the TDC lift spec, then see if you have at least 0.060" between the valves.
   
   
7. Retainer-to-Rocker Cover:
   These next three checks are rocker related checks that are quite common on Harley-Davidsons, though they may be appropriate for other rocker arm engines as well. On Harleys especially, the retainer-to-rocker-cover check is important. When the valve protrusion is increased on Harley Evos, as it often is, the valve spring retainer moves closer to the rocker cover, potentially interfering with it. Or, the cover may be aftermarket, or the heads, as is the case with most clone bikes, giving you the same potential problem. You want to avoid the valve spring retainer touching the rocker cover or any other casting. Assemble the head and rocker cover, and mark with a grease pencil where interference looks likely. Grind some clearance in there if possible. Sounds crude, but it's often necessary and you don't want to overlook it.
   
   
8. Rocker Arm-to-Cover:
   On Harleys again, changes to valve protrusion or any of the top end castings may cause the rocker arm to come closer to the rocker cover. Note the potential clearance issues on assembled parts and clearance as necessary. Clay can be used for this as in the valve-to-piston check. Put the clay on the inside of the rocker cover.
   
   
9. Retainer-to-Rocker Arm:
   This one is very common on modified Harleys and clones. The rocker arm contacts the valve spring retainer's edge due to larger than stock retainers or high valve protrusion. It can also result from incorrectly adjusted adjustable pushrods. The best Hot-Rod retainers are curved for this reason. Assemble and check.
   
   
10. Rocker Arm Geometry:
    Another frequent Harley issue, this is where the rocker arm's movement isn't evenly divided between opening and closing. The result will be excessive valve guide wear. Check to see that the imaginary center of the rocker arm shaft intersects the valve stem at a 90^o angle when the valve is open to half its lift. This will divide the rocker's motion evenly, lengthening the life of the valve and valve guide. This problem is in fact why Harley-Davidson has a valve protrusion spec in the first place, and why shorter than normal replacement valves are widely available.
    
    
11. Valve Follower Travel:
    Leaving the Harley stuff now, and back to the import machine. Whenever camming a shim and bucket engine, you must check that the bucket (technically the follower) will in fact move the required distance. In some Asian cylinder heads, the bucket bottoms out in the casting a mere 0.100" or less after the stock valve lift. Failure to check this will result in a considerable amount of damage, including a broken camshaft. To check it, simply assemble the finished head with the bucket, and either dial-indicate or caliper-depth the fully closed bucket position. Then remove the valve and spring, put the bucket back in the head, and after letting it drop to the bottom of its bore, measure its position again. The difference between the two measurements should be 0.060" more than the maximum valve lift.
    
    
12. Shim and Bucket Valve Protrusion:
    Another common shim and bucket problem is that of assembling the cylinder head and then finding that even the smallest of the factory's shims won't get the valve clearances to spec. This can even happen on an un-modified head that has had a thorough valve job done on it. Usually, the problem is that the valve protrudes so much that the smallest shim will barely fit, if at all. Even if the smallest shim fits, you will then have no room left for future valve adjustments, which is not acceptable. On the old Z1, whose valves could be ground, the answer was simply to "tip" the valves 0.020~0.030", bringing the valve protrusion back down to factory spec. This enabled the middle size shims to be used for valve adjustment. However, on virtually every other engine, the valves are plated at their tips, so tipping is not possible. In this case, you must use aftermarket non-plated valves (such as stainless steel) and then tip them.

Summary
So now you know three of the best-kept secrets of high performance engine building. To recap, the first is that efficiency is important. Efficiency in at least three forms (volumetric, combustion, and thermal) is what the engine builder is really improving when he or she improves engine performance. The second "secret" says that rpm is half of horsepower. It is not all there is to power, as many assume. Rpm plays an interesting role, to be sure, but not the one most people assume. The third "secret" is that the cylinder head is the heart of the engine, where most of the real work of the engine takes place. It is also the hardest part of the engine to build properly, because it requires the most forethought, and nothing less than fanatical attention to detail.

Well I hope you all enjoyed reading this article as much as I did. I know it is a ton of information, but it is all so helpful when building an engine that is going to run. Remember the next time you are building an engine to take your time, and make sure you do it right the first time!!! Enjoy!!!!!!!!!