Learn The Chopper Basics Before You Build One
Chopper Basics: A Simple Look At How Choppers Work...
If you want to learn how to build a chopper from start to finish and
study all the fine detials involved in every step of the process,
this article is not for you. It's simply too large a subject to
discuss in one simple article. But if you want to learn the basics
of how a chopper is built, and how each of the parts work, you may
find this article extremely informative. This article is probably
best for the novice chopper enthusiast who wants to take the fist
step in learning how to build a chopper.
If you want to ad in any additional information, please contact us
and we may include it in this article. We would love to expand on
this and make an advanced presnentation. And with your help on how
to build a chopper we can accomplish this together.
Also, if after you have read this article you want more detailed
information I recommend this video (DVD) series.
Following is the brief description about the parts used in chopper
motorcycles and a basic guide to what's needed in the process of
learning how to build a chopper...
Chopper Basics: The FRAME
The most important step in learning how to build a chopper is
understanding the frame. The frame is one of the most important
components on a motorcycle, especially on a large motorcycle. The
frame must be designed strong enough and built rigid enough to:
Manage the power and torque created by your power train and
maintain its alignment during the full range of
acceleration/deceleration.
Maintain wheel alignment during extreme braking and hard
cornering, as well as while riding over rough surfaces.
Provide a solid mounting surface and pivot points for the front
and rear suspension.
Effectively support the weight of the motorcycle itself as well as
the rider, a passenger, and travel gear.
Frame Construction
The frame is made from high-strength seamless steel tubing and
utilizes a high tensile strength welding process to extremely tight
tolerances.
Chopper Basics: Types of Frames:
1) Hidden Shock Frame
A) Steering Head
B) Frame
C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
D) Shock Absorbers
2) Rubber Mount Frame
A) Steering Head
B) Frame
C) Rear Forks and Pivot Shafts
D) Shock Absorbers
3) Rigid Frame
A) Steering Head
B) Frame
SYSTEMChopper Basics: The SUSPENSION (Front & Rear)
In learning how to build a chopper beyond frame design, the
suspension system is the chief ingredient in determining the
handling capability of a motorcycle. The suspension system is
responsible for keeping the wheels on the ground and absorbing the
shock as the motorcycle passes over uneven surfaces in the road.
Both the front suspension (telescoping front forks) and the rear
suspension (rear swing arm and shock absorbers) operate by
compressing and extending as the motorcycle passes over a bump,
absorbing the shock of the bump to keep the motorcycle stable. The
front and rear suspension utilize springs for the up and down
compression and extension, and suspension dampers to stabilize the
up and down movement. Without the suspension dampers, the springs in
the suspension system would continue to bounce up and down after
each bump creating a “rocking horse” effect.
FRONT SUSPENSION
Motorcycles use two types of telescopic front fork assemblies:
conventional and inverted. Each assembly consists of two fork tubes
which contain springs, spring dampers and oil. The fork legs slide
on the fork tubes. The tube or leg extends and compresses within
itself as a shock absorber. The two types differ in these ways. On
the conventional type, the fork tubes are captured by the triple
clamp positioning the fork leg at the bottom of the assembly. The
inverted type was developed on racing motorcycles to place the
heaviest and strongest part, the fork leg itself, in the triple
clamp - thus inverting the assembly. This design gives more rigidity
to the fork, reducing fork tube flex and lessens the unsprung
weight, improving suspension response. The triple clamps (trees) and
fork stem hold the front fork tubes to the frame and keep the tubes
aligned. The fork stem is an integral part of the triple tree and
fits through the steering head allowing the forks to be turned to
the right and left.
Inverted Fork Suspension
Conventional Fork Suspension
A) Triple Clamps and Fork Stem
B) Fork Legs
C) Fork Tubes
REAR SUSPENSION
There are two types of rear suspension exposed shock absorbers and
hidden shock absorbers. The rear fork is attached to the frame with
the pivot shaft. The arms of the rear fork (often called the swing
arm) hold the rear wheel and keep it aligned. The rear shock
absorbers mount to the rear forks and the back struts of the
motorcycle. The ability of motorcycle to handle effectively while
cornering, breaking, etc. depends in part on the suspension system
having the right amount of “controlled flexibility.” Over time or
under certain conditions if your suspension seems too rigid or too
spongy, it may need servicing or adjustment.
Chopper Basics: The POWERTRAIN
The power train is composed of:
A. V-Twin, 107 cubic-inch, or any four stroke engine
B. Chain driven primary drive except in metric applications
C. 5-Speed transmission or 6-Speed transmission
D. Belt driven final drive down Chain works just as well
Chopper Basics: How the Engine Works
In learning how to build a chopper, you have to have a thorough
understanding of the engine. A four-stroke engine means that each
piston moves four times (strokes) for the engine to complete one
full cycle.
Four Strokes of engine are: Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow!!!
(Suck)Intake Stroke -The piston moves down while the intake valve is open,
pulling the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder.
(Squeeze)Compression Stroke - The piston moves upward pressurizing the
air/fuel mixture.
(Bang)Power Stroke - As the spark plug ignites the compressed air/fuel
mixture, the combustion pushes the piston back down.
(Blow)Exhaust Stroke - With the exhaust valve open the piston moves upward
again, pushing the burned gases out of the cylinder.
The valves opening & closing, the pistons cycling at 3,000 to 5,000
revolutions per minute (at normal operating speeds), the spark plugs
firing all occurring in the proper timing is what it takes to keep
your motorcycle down the road.
PRIMARY DRIVE:
The purpose of the primary drive is to deliver power from the engine
to the gear box. The primary, or initial drive, on your motorcycle
is composed of a primary drive chain which runs from the crankshaft
in the engine to the clutch in the gear box. The power from the
engine to the gear box is engaged and disengaged by the clutch.
TRANSMISSION (GEAR BOX):
The transmission or gear box connects the primary drive to the final
drive with a set of shafts and different size gears. Engaging the
different size gears in the gear box allows for a wide variety of
rear wheel speeds, while allowing the engine to operate
"comfortably" within its range of normal operating speeds. Smaller
gears provide more torque while larger gears provide more speed.
This pairing of different size gears is called “gear ratio” or “gear
reduction”. The gear ratio or reduction in your Big Dog power train
begins with the primary drive, increases in the gear box and
culminates with the final drive.
FINAL DRIVE:
The final drive, is the last link in the power train and connects
the gear box to the rear wheel.
Chopper Basics: The BRAKING SYSTEM
The front brake is a hydraulic disc type, which is operated by the
hand lever on the right handle bar. It is composed of:
A. Front disc rotor
B. 4-piston caliper
C. Braided stainless steel lines
D. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir
The rear brake is a hydraulic disc type which is operated by the
pedal on the right foot rest. It is composed of:
E. Rear disc rotor
F. 4 piston caliper
G. Braided stainless steel lines
H. 5/8" bore master cylinder and fluid reservoir
How the Braking System Works
The braking system is designed so that the front brake should supply
75% of the braking power or your motorcycle. It should be used as
the primary brake while using the rear brake as secondary.
FOR NORMAL BRAKING: Apply both the rear and front brakes while down
shifting to match your road speed.
FOR MAXIMUM BRAKING: Close the throttle and firmly apply both rear
and front brakes; then pull in the clutch lever before coming to a
complete stop to prevent the engine from stalling.
Chopper Basics: The CLUTCH SYSTEM
A. Clutch hand lever
B. Clutch cable
C. Clutch assembly
The clutch assembly is positioned between the primary drive chain
and the gearbox, and provides a way to connect and disconnect the
primary drive (power transmitted from the engine) and the gearbox.
The clutch assembly is disengaged by pulling the clutch hand lever
in against the handlebar grip; it is engaged by releasing the lever.
When the engine is running, the primary drive is spinning. As the
clutch is engaged (the hand lever released) the power from the
engine is transferred to the gearbox and the rear wheel. When the
clutch is disengaged (the hand lever pulled closed) the gearbox does
not receive power from the engine.
THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY:
Simply put, the clutch assembly is composed of round discs called
“clutch plates” which are contained inside a clutch housing (often
called the clutch basket). These plates are pushed together by
spring tension. When pushed together, friction between the plates
causes them to bind or couple together which provides the link to
transfer power from the engine, through the clutch, to the gearbox.
CLUTCH HAND LEVER & CABLE:
When the clutch hand lever is pulled, the clutch cable acts against
(or relieves) the spring tension within the clutch assembly to
release the friction grip inside the clutch. As the clutch plates
separate from each other and slip, this de-couples the gearbox from
the engine. The clutch assembly is a mechanical wet clutch.
Mechanical means that it does not operate by hydraulic pressure. A
wet clutch means that the clutch assembly operates immersed in an
oil bath. This not only helps to keep the clutch assembly cool, but
also washes away loosened friction material from the clutch plates,
keeping the surfaces clean and free of debris.
Chopper Basics: The ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The electrical system provides power for your motorcycle. It is
powered by a high cranking, long -life, 12-volt battery. The
electrical system can be divided into five sub systems:
1. STARTING SYSTEM
A. Battery
B. Start switch - Not Shown
C. Solenoid (Relay)
D. Starting motor (Starter)
2. CHARGING SYSTEM
E. Alternator
F. Voltage regulator
A. Battery
3. IGNITION SYSTEM
G. Ignition switch and ignition coil
H. Kill switch - Not Shown
I. Electronic Control Unit
J. Spark plugs - Not Shown
4. ACCESSORY SYSTEM
* Lights
* Horn
* Turn Signals
* Warning Lights
* Other Accessories
5. CIRCUIT BREAKER
Chopper Basics: The FUEL SYSTEM
A. Fuel tank
B. Fuel supply valve
C. Carburetor and air filter
D. Throttle grip & cable
E. Fuel lines
The fuel system on your motorcycle is a gravity flow system, so no
fuel pump is required. Although it is a simple system, it must
perform the complicated task of blending (or mixing) the fuel and
air together in the right proportions and supply this mixture to the
engine.
FUEL SUPPLY VALVE:
The fuel supply valve (petcock) is a manually operated on/off valve
designed to control the fuel flow from the gas tank to the
carburetor.
CARBURETOR:
The carburetor is the central part as well as the most complex part
of the fuel system. Its primary job is it to atomize (break up) the
fuel into small droplets, and mix the atomized fuel with the right
amount of air. This mixing (or metering) of fuel and air is called
the air/fuel ratio. It is precisely here (the carburetor’s ability to
atomize and properly meter the air-fuel ratio) that performance, as
well as fuel efficiency, is won or lost.
CARBURETOR OPERATION:
In basic terms (see illustration) as air enters the carburetor, its
speed increases passing through the bottleneck in the throat of the
carburetor. This increase in air speed creates a vacuum within the
carburetor which pulls fuel from the fuel reservoir into the air
stream. The fuel is atomized and mixed as it enters the air stream
and is then provided to the engine.
THROTTLE GRIP AND CABLE:
The throttle grip and cable are connected to the throttle plate or
throttle slide inside the carburetor (see illustration). The
throttle plate and/or throttle slide controls the flow of air
through the carburetor. Opening the throttle allows more air to pass
through the carburetor which draws more fuel into the air stream.
This results in increased power from the engine.
AIR FILTER:
The air filter keeps airborne dirt and debris from entering the
throat of the carburetor and passing into the engine.
Chopper Basics: CONTROLS AND DISPLAYS
TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES:
Located at the base of each handlebar control group. The right
handlebar turn signal switch operates the right front and right rear
flashing lamps, and the left handlebar turn signal switch operates
the left. To operate the turn signal you must depress and release
the turn switch.
Chopper Basics: MIRRORS AKA Pig Spotters!
Generally your Motorcycle is equipped with two mirrors. Adjust the
mirrors to clearly reflect the area behind the motorcycle.
A. SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER:
The speedometer registers miles per hour of forward speed. The
odometer registers the number of miles the vehicle has traveled.
B. TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS:
The green TURN indicators will flash when turn signals are
activated.
C. HIGH BEAM LIGHT:
The blue BEAM indicator light, when lit, signals that the headlamp
high beam is on.
D. TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL LIGHT:
The green NEUTRAL light turns on to indicate when the transmission
is in neutral.
E. OIL INDICATOR LIGHT:
The red OIL indicator light, when lit, signals that oil is not
circulating through the engine. The light will come on when the
ignition is turned on prior to starting the engine. With the engine
running, this light should be off except possibly at low idle. If
the oil pressure indicator light does not go off at speeds above
idling, it is usually because of an empty oil tank or diluted oil.
In freezing weather the oil feed may clog with ice and sludge,
preventing oil circulation.
GEAR SHIFTER: The gear shifter is located on the left side, and is
operated with the toe of the left foot. There are five or six
forward gears (depending on model) and no reverse. Pushing the lever
all the way down (one full stroke) shifts the transmission to the
next lower gear, while lifting the lever all the way up (one full
stroke) shifts the transmission into the next higher gear. The
operator must release the gear shift lever after each gear change to
allow the lever to return to its central position before another
gear change can be made. The neutral position is between first (low)
and second gears. First gear is the last gear position that can be
found by pushing the lever full strokes downward. To shift from
first gear to neutral, lift the lever half its full stroke.
SIDE STAND:
The side stand is located on the left side of the motorcycle and
swings outward to support the motorcycle for parking.
BRAKE PEDAL:
In this article on how to build a chopper, we are going to end it
with the brake pedal. The Brake pedal controls the rear wheel brake
and is located on the motorcycle's right side. It is operated by the
right foot.
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Now I know a lot of this applies to Harley Choppers, but it is all useful info to any gearhead out there. Make what works for work for you. Hope y'all enjoyed!!!
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